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Do not start this DIY if you haven’t checked you RT tail light fuse or Room fuse (yellow plastic cover). Make sure your BCM is good (if its bad your turn signals will be malfunctioning). Check your dimmer switch to make sure its bad. You can test your dimmer switch up jumping it with a paper clip. If your lights show very dim then it may be bad.

Use a test light on the PINK/BLACK wire(+ power); it is directly next to a GREY wire (- ground). With your headlights on and the key in the On position check for voltage with a test light or multimeter. If there is no voltage then you will need to bypass the PINK/BLACK wire. To bypass run a 16-18 gauge wire from your under-dash fuse box to (pick a fuse, wrap around wire threading, reinsert fuse) to the PINK/BLACK wire by making a T-splice or use a 2 to 1 wire crimp.


I suppose you can cut the OEM wire but I used a T-splice to avoid cutting. Test same wire with a test light or multimeter. If there is voltage you can install your gauge cluster and enjoy your lights once again

If there is voltage then the ground may be bad. Look for the GREY wire (directly next to a PINK/BLACK, Pin 15 or 16 i believe) and make a T-splice with 16-18 gauge wire about 6-8inches in length. Ground the other end of the wire with a O-crimp to the center bolt (looking into the empty space where the gauge cluster sits at your 6 o’ clock there is a bolt/nut 10mm). If there is ground you can install your gauge cluster and enjoy your lights once again

Ever took pictures with your digital camera and tried uploading them only to find all the recent pics you took were gone but you can still view old pics? This happens sometimes with Cannon and Nikon cameras and probably others. The formatting from a camera to a PC is .riff to .jpg but sometimes pics can save unformatted or there was an upload failure from your camera memory card to your PC resulting in bad sectors of newer pics. If you can still view older pics then your memory card isn’t corrupt.

You need to use a data recovery software. Most cost $30 and more but a free solution is a program called Testdisk. You can download it from cnet.com here . Its a dos-based program so its kinda confusing to use. Here are the recover steps if you are using Windows:

• There will be a screen displaying the available partitions of your memory card which may display ‘not formatted’ or ‘FAT32’ at the end of either selection. We want to recover from a partition not create one so select the option that ends with ‘FAT32’ (or possibly FAT16/NTFS if applicable).

More expensive car alarms can range up to $500 with GPS tracking. Is there really a huge difference besides the GPS and LCD screen? Simply said, yes. A budget car alarm will almost never have features of higher-end alarms such as anti-scan receiver with code hopping, shock sensors, high range frequency (900MHz+) remotes, two-way paging, warranty, etc.

Summary: This budget system functions minimally as a car alarm. The warning-LED and starter kill work enough to possibly fend off petty inexperienced car-thieves. Could work as a keyless-entry system if useful instructions were given. Siren works great if you connect it to a better module.

Conclusion: Unless you want a simple keyless entry system and a flashing LED then don’t get a cheap car alarm. The remote frequency is low, so you can’t be more than a few yards to use your remote. No code-hopping so your module can be scrambled by advanced car-thieves. No programmable functions for optional features. No or bad instructions for installation which means paying a shop to install will cost more. No two-way paging which is the ability for the remote to communicate with the vehicle (LCD screen).Limited or no warranty. Cheap quality remotes.

The best budget car alarm I found is the AutoPage RF-225A. Its doesn’t include a fancy LCD screen but it has many features of expensive car alarms such as $150-$300 Viper and Clifford systems and costs about $60 with free shipping (www.sonicelectronix.com) however the siren/horn is sold separately. I used the one that came with my Option Auto car alarm. At least it was useful for something.